Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : tänään kello 12:10 »Hello, sorry for my late response, the last time i tried to access the webesite, it was down.
so, honestly, i gave up for now. I have to retest the situation again, with different positions on the potentiometer. besides that i doubt if i can test more? Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : 29.04.2026 kello on 04:02 »"what do you mean testing the NTC seperately?"
Checking a electronic component separately means measuring it desoldered from PCB, isolated of its circuit, of any other component. That is a regular procedure to positively find its state. Measuring a component in-circuit is considered prevaluation of its state, it may or may not reveal its condition, depending of its type and its surroundings in the circuit. Decision to order spares is made only after that. Only in rare situations operational measurements gives stronger indication in respect to separately measured component value. Temperature sensor NTC should affect heaters temperature control only, elecric (which you said didn't shut down) or gas. It should not have anything to do with gas ignition failure, that is another problem. Now, it seems to me, we are still dealing with (at least) two faults. Confusion allways lurks in these cases. Some points of interest.... 1. What resistance did the original NTC show off-circuit? 2. In gas starting sequence, were you able to detect gas escape from supply lines (ie. pressure drop by valve(s) opening)? BTW. As you replaced the potentiometer, you expectedly have it in mid-position? At least you should start by that before further adjustment. These resistors have no polarity. Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 22.04.2026 kello on 20:37 »Hello everyone, i recieved today the resistor and the potentiometer.
i soldered everything to the print (can the resitor be wrong with polarity?). However, it did not change anything on my issues  Next round is up Regards Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 15.04.2026 kello on 17:36 »Ok, ordered the Resistor and the replacement Potentionmeter.
what do you mean testing the NTC seperately? Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : 15.04.2026 kello on 04:20 »(>> #26) That resistor seems to be suitable. Have you checked your sensor NTC separately?
I expect you will also need more electronic spares for fixing gas section, hopefully so because that would be the easy case. Model specific spares for old types heaters are usually more troublesome to find. Not only for Aquaflex but many other models too. Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 14.04.2026 kello on 11:44 »Hi, this would be a 47kOhm Resistor, but im not 100% sure, if the temperature scale is the correct?
https://www.reichelt.com/ch/de/shop/produkt/ntc_widerstand_450_mw_47_kohm-240049 thanks for an advice Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : 14.04.2026 kello on 00:05 »@Patrick: "Could this be related to the temperature senros (rt1) or the potentio meter
(temperature selector) which is broken?" - As you have measured 27.4kohm of temperature sensor with parallel resistors it is way too high and explaines why electric heating is uncontrolled. When we get gas heating fixed it will do the same. You can fix that separately, just desolder sensor and measure it. It's nominal value is 47kohm (@25C) but I believe it is failed and presents much higher value. If so, and if you have easy access to spare parts, it might make sense to get new NTC-sensor before the gas starting fault is traced. It is up to your priority. Kirjoittanut: mjo33400« : 13.04.2026 kello on 22:09 »@Mjerica Se liittyy ohjauspaneelin lämpötila-anturiin tai trimmeri potentiometriin ( lämmön säätö ). Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 13.04.2026 kello on 20:34 »@Mjerica
Sorry, i was also not checking since last friday (the website was also not working for 2 days, at least in Switzerland) i will try the mentioned tests. Other question: When i start the heater on electric power, with mode 1 (1kw) no matter what temperature i set, the system keeps heating up until i feel like in a sauna. Could this be related to the temperature senros (rt1) or the potentio meter (temperature selector) which is broken? thanks again Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : 11.04.2026 kello on 17:09 »Being busy these days my response have delayed but some quick notes here anyway:
- As you may noticed in #1. for gas to flow it takes two (solenoid)valves to operate. The main (security)valve which is always needed. And one or both of heating power control valves (2kW or 4kW). All these requires a holding voltage to keep open and at least a pulse of actuating voltage to open. Those LEDs tells only of holding voltage of heating power control valves, they do not tell anything about valve actuations. So, the "clacking sound" tells about opening of one valve. Distinguishing of two valves to open is needed. Without any electrical measuring you might try to touch those solenoids to feel if they operate. There is another way to check gas flow wery directly: As you open the bottle valve shortly, then if you later open some gas appliance valve (f.e. gas stove) you may hear "a hizz" and may even light it up for a second. That is also a practical way to check for leaks in system. Now, if you have tried to start your heater in meantime and found that gas is disappered from distribution lines, you know that your Aquaflex had succeeded to open gas flow at least for a moment (during starting sequence). If there is still pressure left in lines then one of the needed valves has failed to open. |
