Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : eilen kello 20:37 »Hello everyone, i recieved today the resistor and the potentiometer.
i soldered everything to the print (can the resitor be wrong with polarity?). However, it did not change anything on my issues  Next round is up Regards Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 15.04.2026 kello on 17:36 »Ok, ordered the Resistor and the replacement Potentionmeter.
what do you mean testing the NTC seperately? Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : 15.04.2026 kello on 04:20 »(>> #26) That resistor seems to be suitable. Have you checked your sensor NTC separately?
I expect you will also need more electronic spares for fixing gas section, hopefully so because that would be the easy case. Model specific spares for old types heaters are usually more troublesome to find. Not only for Aquaflex but many other models too. Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 14.04.2026 kello on 11:44 »Hi, this would be a 47kOhm Resistor, but im not 100% sure, if the temperature scale is the correct?
https://www.reichelt.com/ch/de/shop/produkt/ntc_widerstand_450_mw_47_kohm-240049 thanks for an advice Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : 14.04.2026 kello on 00:05 »@Patrick: "Could this be related to the temperature senros (rt1) or the potentio meter
(temperature selector) which is broken?" - As you have measured 27.4kohm of temperature sensor with parallel resistors it is way too high and explaines why electric heating is uncontrolled. When we get gas heating fixed it will do the same. You can fix that separately, just desolder sensor and measure it. It's nominal value is 47kohm (@25C) but I believe it is failed and presents much higher value. If so, and if you have easy access to spare parts, it might make sense to get new NTC-sensor before the gas starting fault is traced. It is up to your priority. Kirjoittanut: mjo33400« : 13.04.2026 kello on 22:09 »@Mjerica Se liittyy ohjauspaneelin lämpötila-anturiin tai trimmeri potentiometriin ( lämmön säätö ). Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 13.04.2026 kello on 20:34 »@Mjerica
Sorry, i was also not checking since last friday (the website was also not working for 2 days, at least in Switzerland) i will try the mentioned tests. Other question: When i start the heater on electric power, with mode 1 (1kw) no matter what temperature i set, the system keeps heating up until i feel like in a sauna. Could this be related to the temperature senros (rt1) or the potentio meter (temperature selector) which is broken? thanks again Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : 11.04.2026 kello on 17:09 »Being busy these days my response have delayed but some quick notes here anyway:
- As you may noticed in #1. for gas to flow it takes two (solenoid)valves to operate. The main (security)valve which is always needed. And one or both of heating power control valves (2kW or 4kW). All these requires a holding voltage to keep open and at least a pulse of actuating voltage to open. Those LEDs tells only of holding voltage of heating power control valves, they do not tell anything about valve actuations. So, the "clacking sound" tells about opening of one valve. Distinguishing of two valves to open is needed. Without any electrical measuring you might try to touch those solenoids to feel if they operate. There is another way to check gas flow wery directly: As you open the bottle valve shortly, then if you later open some gas appliance valve (f.e. gas stove) you may hear "a hizz" and may even light it up for a second. That is also a practical way to check for leaks in system. Now, if you have tried to start your heater in meantime and found that gas is disappered from distribution lines, you know that your Aquaflex had succeeded to open gas flow at least for a moment (during starting sequence). If there is still pressure left in lines then one of the needed valves has failed to open. Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 7.04.2026 kello on 19:14 »i measured again
PIC Pin 26 5.1v - 5.4v (while igntion is active) PIC Pin 27 0v JP2 Pin 3 12.8v - 13.0v constant (while igntion is active) JP2 Pin 4 12.4v - 1sec 12.8v, then 12.5v (while igntion is active) Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 7.04.2026 kello on 15:07 »The Voltage starts from 0V to the measured values when i hear the click in the gas switch. After a few seconds (need to count exactly) i would say, 3-5secs, the voltage decreases within 1sec back to 0v.
The ignititor is good to hear after the gas switch "clacking sound", its a very silent frequently pulsing sound (ca 3-4secs) To your question: Do you see voltage on JP2/pin2 simultaneously with ignition "buzz"? >>>> i need to verify this tonight, i feel like it is the same time, but not 100% sure. |
