Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : tänään kello 11:44 »Hi, this would be a 47kOhm Resistor, but im not 100% sure, if the temperature scale is the correct?
https://www.reichelt.com/ch/de/shop/produkt/ntc_widerstand_450_mw_47_kohm-240049 thanks for an advice Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : tänään kello 00:05 »@Patrick: "Could this be related to the temperature senros (rt1) or the potentio meter
(temperature selector) which is broken?" - As you have measured 27.4kohm of temperature sensor with parallel resistors it is way too high and explaines why electric heating is uncontrolled. When we get gas heating fixed it will do the same. You can fix that separately, just desolder sensor and measure it. It's nominal value is 47kohm (@25C) but I believe it is failed and presents much higher value. If so, and if you have easy access to spare parts, it might make sense to get new NTC-sensor before the gas starting fault is traced. It is up to your priority. Kirjoittanut: mjo33400« : eilen kello 22:09 »@Mjerica Se liittyy ohjauspaneelin lämpötila-anturiin tai trimmeri potentiometriin ( lämmön säätö ). Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : eilen kello 20:34 »@Mjerica
Sorry, i was also not checking since last friday (the website was also not working for 2 days, at least in Switzerland) i will try the mentioned tests. Other question: When i start the heater on electric power, with mode 1 (1kw) no matter what temperature i set, the system keeps heating up until i feel like in a sauna. Could this be related to the temperature senros (rt1) or the potentio meter (temperature selector) which is broken? thanks again Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : 11.04.2026 kello on 17:09 »Being busy these days my response have delayed but some quick notes here anyway:
- As you may noticed in #1. for gas to flow it takes two (solenoid)valves to operate. The main (security)valve which is always needed. And one or both of heating power control valves (2kW or 4kW). All these requires a holding voltage to keep open and at least a pulse of actuating voltage to open. Those LEDs tells only of holding voltage of heating power control valves, they do not tell anything about valve actuations. So, the "clacking sound" tells about opening of one valve. Distinguishing of two valves to open is needed. Without any electrical measuring you might try to touch those solenoids to feel if they operate. There is another way to check gas flow wery directly: As you open the bottle valve shortly, then if you later open some gas appliance valve (f.e. gas stove) you may hear "a hizz" and may even light it up for a second. That is also a practical way to check for leaks in system. Now, if you have tried to start your heater in meantime and found that gas is disappered from distribution lines, you know that your Aquaflex had succeeded to open gas flow at least for a moment (during starting sequence). If there is still pressure left in lines then one of the needed valves has failed to open. Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 7.04.2026 kello on 19:14 »i measured again
PIC Pin 26 5.1v - 5.4v (while igntion is active) PIC Pin 27 0v JP2 Pin 3 12.8v - 13.0v constant (while igntion is active) JP2 Pin 4 12.4v - 1sec 12.8v, then 12.5v (while igntion is active) Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 7.04.2026 kello on 15:07 »The Voltage starts from 0V to the measured values when i hear the click in the gas switch. After a few seconds (need to count exactly) i would say, 3-5secs, the voltage decreases within 1sec back to 0v.
The ignititor is good to hear after the gas switch "clacking sound", its a very silent frequently pulsing sound (ca 3-4secs) To your question: Do you see voltage on JP2/pin2 simultaneously with ignition "buzz"? >>>> i need to verify this tonight, i feel like it is the same time, but not 100% sure. Kirjoittanut: Mjerica« : 7.04.2026 kello on 14:06 »@Patrick:
"PIC Pin 26 IC1 right side Drives control transistor (Q22 path)" "PIC Pin 27 IC1 right side Drives control transistor (Q1 path)" -Q22? Q1? Have you measured something of Q22/Q1? @Patrick: "PIC Pin 26 - 5.1v - 5.4v PIC Pin 27 - 0v JP2 Pin 3 - 12.8v JP2 Pin 4 - 12.4v" - Do you mean these voltages kept these levels (all the way during starting sequence) without changes? I expected some rapid transitions. How would you descripe the behaviour of valve unit LEDs during starting sequence? I mean, as precisily as possible and also time referenced to ignition "buzz" (I understand you recognized ignition by its sound?) Do you see voltage on JP2/pin2 simultaneously with ignition "buzz"? Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 7.04.2026 kello on 12:33 »Good day everyone Kirjoittanut: swiss_guy« : 6.04.2026 kello on 12:20 »Good day everyone
I have resolved the battery issues, now i have better and constant current. I measured again durring the startphase: PIC Pin 26 - 5.1v - 5.4v PIC Pin 27 - 0v JP2 Pin 3 - 12.8v JP2 Pin 4 - 12.4v Still the same situation, it tries to start, and goes to error on the controller (as in the video). Any ideas? Thank you and have a good day |
